By Ronjinee Chattopadhyay
“Blessed are those who are able to seek this place out, child… hardly anyone comes to visit the synagogue nowadays.”
These words greeted us once we crossed the threshold of Magen David, one of the three major synagogues in the city of Kolkata.
While it was a simple Google search that led me and my friends to the place in a bid to make the best of our holidays, I realized soon that we had stumbled upon a gem. Walking through the busy streets of central Kolkata in the sweltering heat seemed entirely worth the trouble once we approached the majestic building.
A Treasured Past
You can find the Magen David Synagogue right at the intersection of Brabourne Road and Canning Street. It is near the bustling Barabazar, known to be one of the largest wholesale markets in the country. Built by a Baghdadi Jewish merchant in the 19th century, the place is one of the few remnants of the once-vibrant Jewish culture of the city. Today, locals take care of it, shouldering a responsibility that has been passed down for generations.
The synagogue’s resplendent architecture is sure to take you back in time. When we visited, the caretaker also recollected bits and pieces of the rich history associated with it. “This place once used to be brimming with people, back when my grandfather worked here. Now it is only during prayers that you’ll find a crowd.”
The Synagogue – An Architectural Wonder
The magnificent stained glass on the windows magically light up the interior, catching your eye at the very moment you enter.
At the center of the complex is a raised platform, called the bimah, where the torah is read and other religious services are delivered. The torah refers to the religious texts of the Jews, which includes the Talmud and the Hebrew Bible. The ark at the very front of the synagogue securely houses the torah.
The ark is one of the most important structures in any synagogue. It has, among other things, a light that should never go out. A bright red electric light in the Magen David shines on as a symbol of the eternal light. Between the ark and the bimah, guarded by glass walls, lies an exhibit of a few pages from the religious scriptures for visitors to glance at.
Further, on either side are two sets of winding stairs which lead you to the upper gallery. This was originally meant to seat only women during the prayer service. Making my way to the gallery, I was awestruck by the intricate beauty of the place, reflected in even the staircases.
A City Brimming With Diversity
The center of the city also symbolises a confluence of cultures. Adding to the cultural vibrance of the locality, lie the Armenian Church and the Nakhoda Mosque, not too far from the Synagogue.
As our visit came to an end, I peered down from the upper gallery to take in the serenity the place offered. The sound of the afternoon prayer (azaan) from the nearby mosque filtered into the premises. Perhaps it is true: blessed are those who are able to witness the diversity of cultures alive and thriving in the City of Joy.
The Visitor’s Guide
Planning to visit the stunning synagogue the next time you’re in the city? Treat yourself to a lavish meal in Zakaria Street afterwards – a place in Kolkata known for its delectable biryani and sinful kebabs. You could also pay a visit to the Beth El synagogue only a few minutes away from Magen David, or splurge on some streetside goods in the lanes of Barabazar.
The visiting hours of the synagogue are from 11 AM to 4.30 PM, except for Fridays and Saturdays. Tip : Do remember to carry a scarf or handkerchief to cover your head before you enter!
